10ft10ft Shipping Containers
The side passage is narrow, the council setback leaves you nothing to play with, or all you need is somewhere lockable for a mower, a compressor and a rack of tools.

Storage
A shipping container is the cheapest weatherproof, lockable, relocatable storage there is. Getting it right comes down to three things: grade, siting and air.
Cargo-worthy or better if anything inside matters. As-is units are cheaper and are not sold watertight; they are a good buy for a lock-up under an existing roof and a poor one for anything you would be upset to find wet.
Level, on firm ground, weight on the four corner castings, doors facing somewhere you can get a vehicle to but a stranger cannot loiter. Fall away from the doors rather than towards them.
Warm humid air, cold steel, and water forms on the underside of the roof overnight and drips onto whatever is below. Vents, a pallet layer, desiccant, and never seal anything damp inside.
A container keeps rain out from above when it is cargo-worthy grade or better. It does not keep floodwater out — water reaches the door seals and gets in, and an empty container will float. If the site floods, what protects the contents is height above the flood line and being able to move things out in time.

Security
Every unit we sell has a lock box — a steel shroud welded over the padlock area so the shackle cannot be reached with bolt cutters. Put a closed-shackle padlock inside it and the lock stops being the weak point.
After that it is siting. Doors facing a fence, a wall or the house rather than the street. Somewhere with a light on it. Somewhere a truck cannot back up to unobserved. None of that costs anything and all of it matters more than the padlock does.
Sizes
10ftThe side passage is narrow, the council setback leaves you nothing to play with, or all you need is somewhere lockable for a mower, a compressor and a rack of tools.
20ftYou have about seven metres of straight, reasonably level ground to put it on and you would rather not find out in six months that you should have gone bigger.
40ftYou have the room, the access is genuinely open, and you want the most storage per dollar available anywhere.
Common questions
A container is a steel box with one way in, and that is a good start. What decides it is the lock and where the container sits. A lock box — a steel shroud welded over the padlock so bolt cutters cannot reach the shackle — with a closed-shackle padlock inside it is the standard answer, and it is fitted to our units. Then site it so the doors face a wall, a fence or the house rather than the street.
They can, and it is the single most under-discussed problem with container storage. It is not usually leaks — a cargo-worthy unit is checked wind and watertight. It is condensation: warm humid air inside, cold steel roof at night, and water forms on the underside of the roof and drips. Vents, a pallet layer off the floor, desiccant and not storing anything damp in the first place are the fixes.
Neither, exactly — what matters is that the weight sits on the four corner castings on something firm and level. Timber sleepers, concrete pads or compacted road base under each corner works well. Sitting the whole container flat on lawn traps moisture underneath, encourages rust from below and, on soft ground, lets one corner settle so the doors stop closing.
That depends on your council, and the answer genuinely varies shire to shire. Some treat a container as an ancillary structure needing no approval; others want a siting application, particularly if it is visible from the street or is staying indefinitely. It is one phone call to your council and much better made before delivery than after.
Get a price
Tell us what is going in it and where it is going. Every enquiry answered within one business day.
Or skip the form and ring us — 0477 410 500, Mon–Fri 7:30am–5pm, Sat 8am–12pm